TWO GOOD PEOPLE
We are on the hunt for a deer pig. Forgive the lengthy Russian-Doll location description, but we are in Wakai port, on Batukada Island, in the Togean Islands, in Sulawesi, in the Molucca Sea, in Indonesia. And to wring the Matryoshka-stacking-doll analogy out completely dry: this place is colourful, generational and fits perfectly together just as it should.
A man named Amen has arranged to meet us at 5am to take us to find a Babirusa, also known as the deer pig. This prehistoric-looking, hippopotamus-looking, menacing-looking member of the pig family is native to this area. They look like a little like God gathered all the left over animal parts and assembled them Mr Potato Head style. Babirusa are vulnerable to extinction and proving to be somewhat elusive, if not decidedly mythical.
Sir Edmund Hillary’s mission to find Yeti comes to mind. In the 1960s, Hillary led two expeditions to Nepal and Tibet to investigate the Yeti mystery. His interest was partly sparked by stories from the Sherpa people, who regarded the Yeti as a real creature. By the end of the expedition, Hillary dismissed the idea of the Yeti being a real, undiscovered species. He suggested that many sightings were likely misidentified animals, such as bears, and that the legend was a mix of folklore, hoaxes, and local traditions. Glory!
Amen was a no show, but our faith was still strong. Anton on the Island of Melange assures us Babirusa are not fictitious, so we arrange a 4am pick up. A combination of heat, moisture, and unstable air makes Indonesia one of the most lightning-prone regions in the world. Early morning skies are impressive. A concerto of Muslim Prayer dances across the water, accompanied by a biblically almighty light show while we wait for No Show number two.
A language muddle explains Anton’s arrival at 4 PM. Aboard his traditional longboat he takes us to meet Coco, a subdued, primordial-looking, beautiful Babirusa. Hallelujah! This gentle creature emerges from the jungle to the sound of coconuts being opened. He loves kumara and enjoys a good rub behind the ears, both of which we give him generously.
Coco’s skin feels rough and tough and his expression is a little sleepy and slightly smiley. His most distinctive features are his four facial tusks and his four-pronged cloven hooves; all of which he lets us poke and prod and play with. To be clear, this is a wild animal. Coco just visits because he feels safe here, and we are fortunate that he calls by from time to time. Coco is mellow; his ears are hippopotamusy and his underbelly is, well, pig-like. He is not menacing or scary, he is lovely. I like Coco, but I love Janey.
Janey is a rescue Macaque monkey and she is pure joy. I spent a very special afternoon becoming her friend. She reached up for my hand, with her little hand, and grabbed hold….it felt like heaven. She used my fingers to launch herself, swinging about my body like I was a tree. She was soft all over and it was magic.
We got to know each other a little. With a curious expression, she picked up strands of my hair to smell, picked at my edges of my clothes and stroked my skin. Equally curious, I caressed her wiggly little body and checked out her teeny tiny, full set of humanlike teeth she clicked together in a monkey smile and silent chatter. She looked me in the eye in small glances. Mischievous, inquisitive and affectionate; she melted my heart and every moment was a privilege.
Janey is a rare and endangered species of Macaque only found only on the island of Malenge. Unthinkably, Janey's mother, along with several other macaques, were trapped and slaughtered. When she was rescued from the family of the poachers in June 2023, she was just fist sized weighing less than 500 grams, and emaciated from prolonged diarrhoea likely caused by the sweet condensed milk fed to her by the poachers. Her saviours were two very special humans.
This story may seem like it is about two animals, but it actually about two people: Dr Ating Solihin, MD and his wife Meidy. They have created a safe haven for animals and a sanctuary for their souls. Dr Ating said “we came here to escape civilisation”, expressing a subtle shadow of distaste by articulating the word civilisation slowly, with at least seven deliberate syllables. Dr Ating’s website begins….
“We only live truly happily when we are in love - giving and receiving it. By helping the poor with my medical knowledge and skills I am expressing my love.
I also believe that wild animals and plants have the right to live in peace - which is why I see my duty to help them finding a safe place in this time of human greed and destruction.
Hence my life goal is to work for the poor people living around National Parks in Indonesia - both with medical care and education, motivating them to preserve the habitat of the wildlife."
And this is exactly what they do. Stepping into their world felt slow and safe. The pair radiate Buddhist values and wear their hearts on their tee’s. They are patient with the world and with nature. Dr Ating and Meidy have created a space where these beautiful wild animals can safely step into the human world, and be free to come and go as they please. They are kind by nature.
Dr Ating and Meidy are slowly in the process of familiarising and reintroducing Janey to a Macaque troop that live nearby in the hope she will naturally join them of her own volition one day. God bless them both. They are letting her set the pace, for now she just plays with the young ones, avoids the adults, and is being very shy and careful. I have no doubt she will step out into the world when she is ready. God speed Janey.
Janey will only connect with women humans; this is something instinctive for her, and a little gratifying for me. As we sat with Meidy and learned her story, Janey zapped about us showing off, corking her spins, her moves pure high performance Parkour. This visit was profoundly heartwarming, proving once again that it is the unexpected moments in life that gift us small miracles. Janey, like her namesake Jane Goodall, is smart, strong, fun and agile; she is all the things I hope to be.