THESE ARE THE FACES OF THE SANTA CRUZ ISLANDS
Warm waters, warm air and warm smiles greeted us after a multi-day sail eastward, against the SE trade winds, to reach this remote, rarely visited, region of the Solomon Islands.
The largest island in the group is Nendö. Other islands belonging to the Santa Cruz group are Utupua and Vanikoro. The islands of Tikopia and Anuta are both considered Polynesian Outliers, islands that are culturally Polynesian societies that geographically lie outside the main region of Polynesian influence; their origins are debated. To the NW of the island of Nendo lie the Reef Islands and the Duff Islands, the latter is also considered a Polynesian Outlier and we were are grateful to have visited them all. (Paragraph credit R. Russ)
We were graciously welcomed at every village, on every island. Requisite visits to the Chief, or sometime multiple Chiefs, were conducted. Modest gifts were given and coconut welcome-drinks were received. Fleeting eye contact, open smiles, small-talk and strong-handshakes exchanged; permission to explore was granted
We were immersed in heritage, landscapes, seascapes, religion and culture, but hands-down, the children were the highlight. The kids showered us with warmth, laughter and raw affection. Some were shy, but mostly they were curious, interested and happy.
Handholding, linked fingers and gentle touching all part of their unique and warm welcome. Special stuff. Swarms of kids followed us through each village with these wondrous faces, bright smiles and sparkling eyes.
We gave away as much as we could: clothes, fishing hooks, coloured pencils, masks and snorkels, rope and the odd can of Sprite. All gifts were instantly communal, handed around fairly, a can of lemonade passed amongst many; sharing so innate for those with so little.
These people have minimal possessions. All clothes are togs, books are treasures and friendships and whanau are their riches. Life is not easy. Subsistence living is hard and there is truly no one to call if they need help. For the most part they are self-sufficient with faith in God, nature and the Chief for guidance. Education, health care and governance is in-house, they live largely unsupported and disconnected from the outside world. We chose to believe this is a blessing.
I won’t forget these children. If the laughter a measure of contentment, theirs is a happy existence. According to Ralph Waldo Emerson: happiness is a perfume you cannot pour on others without getting some on yourself. So I am home bound with a full heart, inspired mind and recharged spirit, all covered in happiness.
Written for fun October 2023
